Tuesday, 19 November 2013

Kujawski and Dolnośląski

Kujawski maiden and male attire. 7 1/2 inches.
Stanislaw Wyspianski Handicraft Cooperative dolls.
   A very popular costume in Poland. Kujawia (Ku-ya-via) is an area in North-central Poland borded by Vistula river and is divided into two parts; the prosperous Field Kuyavia and the poorer Forest Kuyavia.
Pink shows main area of Kujawy region, yellow indicates extended areas
where costume was also worn.
  The peak time of Kuyavian costume's popularity was from 1870 till 1914. However, some still wore them for festivals and holidays and many original elements of this costume were stored and preserved, mainly in museums. Many folk dance ensembles wear this costume today also for performing as The Kujawiak is one of Poland's five National dances. (The others are: Polonaise, Mazurka, Oberek and Krakowiak).
Maiden attire on left, married woman on right. 10 inches.
   These dolls I have are made by different manufactures. The two in this photo are: on left; label -"Technoplastyka Cooperative" from Kraków - 1979, the one in right I bought from Poland in 1979, missing label, but I believe this to be from "Milenium" from Kraków. This costume is well known, so finding a Kujawski costumed doll is not so hard.
Photo credit: Stanisław Gadomski  (Strój Ludowy w Polsce)
  The Kujawski dress comes in many varieties, depending both on the time, place and prosperity of people. Most popular colours are in various blue hues, red, green and even pink.
  The most striking part of the married women's clothing was white, embroidered cap (cock) with a cotton cloth or tulle wrapped rolls of silk scarf (kaczorówką). A white shirt with an embroidered collar, a velvet bodice with a cloak of dark blue, sapphire or black cloth, woolen dark skirt and apron of silk or wool with white embroidery. Two embroidered petticoats - white linen and red flannel worn under skirt. 
White embroidered on apron.
   Maidens had a head dress of ribbons laid out in a zigzag pattern, decorated with natural or artificial flowers. A wool vest with red trim. Amber or coral beads completed the outfit.
  Married men wore a black hat on his head or the characteristic cylinder head wider at the top, decorated with peacock feathers. Bachelors headgear was a blue four-cornered hat trimmed with lamb. A red shirt with a white collar, a silk ribbon tied underneath. Navy blue sleeveless jacket, dark wool pants tucked into long boots. A long red sash is tied around the jacket.

   I have posted these dolls before, however I aquired another lady doll, so I wish to give more detail about the costume and region. Dolnośląsk means Lower Silesia, the area is South-west of Poland.
Married woman's attire. "Tradycja Cooperative" 1989. 10 inches
She has a green bonnet with large lace
Dolnośląski couple dolls on left by Andrzej Kaliszewski, Warsaw 2012.  Szklarska Poręba style.
   The Dolnośląsk costume can be divided into subgroups: Wrocław, Kłodzki, Wałbrzyski, Karkonosze, and Jeleniogórski. The most represented of these is from Szklarska Poręba, close to Jelenia Góra by German border. The dolls above I believe to from that area.
Detail of dolls cap. Gold threads, trim and bow.
   The most valuable elements of the traditional clothing of Lower Silesia were their exquisite bonnets. They were one piece, two or three piece, and were made with expensive fabrics like brocade and silks sewn with gold or silver threads, sequins, metallic beads and fine lace trim or even silver chantilly lace. This was the most valuable and costly part of her outfit, used for special occasions and holidays, then stored and locked up in chests. Because of this great care in preserving these bonnets, many have survived and are now in museums for exhibit. No two were alike.
Left: Museum in Jelenia Góra, mid 19th century.  Right: Bonnet from Karkonosze region, Ethnographic museum in Wrocław.
   All parts of the dress outfit were sewn from ready-made fabrics. A shirt, a jacket of expensive fabrics in its cut following the Renaissance fashion, a long and wide skirt of purchased silk, cotton or woollen fabric, and an apron sewn from the same fabric or sometimes of white batiste. Also a white batiste ornamented with flower-patterned whitework embroidery, was worn on the shoulders like a shaw. 
   Men's folk attire was first to disappear and they wore clothes that was fashionable in cities in the 19th century, such as the doll above.
    The costumes from Dolnośląsk region went out of fashion between turn of the century and WWI. Some items, especially the bonnets can be viewed in museums today. A few local dance ensembles wear a reconstructed version based on old patterns.

Friday, 8 November 2013

Mary visits Poland

Mary visits Poland video (1939)


No dolls this time. I found a wonderful video and just had to include it onto my blog. It is a black and white film made in the UK about a girl in class talking about her trip to Poland. Shows the farm life in Łowicz, Krakow city and the mountain region Tatry. Traditional costumes, dances and old customs of by gone days in  pre-war Poland. The girl narrates in English language, filmed by Footage Farm (Educational?) of UK in 1939, just before WWII broke out. Has the title superimposed throughout the film with a timer on bottom, but still very viewable. About 10 minutes.