Sunday, 22 September 2013

Hrubieszow and Opoczno

Doll from Hrubieszów region 
Newest doll, special order from Mr. & Mrs. Kaliszewski. This is a lesser-know Polish costume. 

Along the very eastern most part of Poland by Ukraine border, an area south of Lublin city. In this region, the costumes of the inhabitants were called Hrubieszów or Tomaszów-Lublin, named so after those larger villages. The clothes were worn in-between the villages of Tomaszów and south of Hrubieszów (Poland), on the territory that stretched in a wide belt between these towns and reached into Ukraine towns of Rawa-Ruska and Sokal. Throughout the centuries these lands were subject to conflicts between Poland and Russia. 
Many in Poland feel this is entirely a Ukrainian costume, but it's not. This dress is a typical example of clothing that exists to similar items of clothing and ornamentation characteristic of both Polish and Ukrainian elements. The impact of both cultures is clearly visible in the peasant attire that was popular in the first years of the last century. Most of these clothes disappeared by second world war, but the beautiful and elaborate embroidered shirts were still common.
Ladies festive costume consisted of a linen or woollen head-scrarf, often red, young girls were bare-headed. A linen blouse with large square cut collar. The sleeves, cuffs and collar were richly embroidered in cross-stitch mainly in black, and later multi-colored, very similar to Ukrainian embroidery, in stars, flowers and geometrical patterns.
Men also had simple clothes made of homespun linen pants, jacket like woman's and very richly embroidered shirt, especially on the front part.
Woman's embroidered linen blouse.
Homespun linen printed skirts were later replaced with factory-made wool ones. Hand-loomed linen aprons were embroidered and decorated with cross-stitch embroidery, fringes were tied in a macrame fashion, as it was 'off the loom'. Most unique in this region was the long jacket, also a homespun cloth in grey-brown colour called "Kurtyka" that was with or without sleeves, worn by both girls and older women. Black boots completed the outfit. 
This image shows a later variation of the costume more fashionable, with factory made materials for skirt, black embroidered apron with lace trim and a colourful embroidered velvet vest. 
Picture: Dancer from Mazowsze Polish Folk Ensemble.

Two Opoczno dolls

I was able to find another two dolls, probably same maker as there is no label or markings anywhere. Excellent attention to detail of costume. Wool striped dress and apron with very tiny cross-stitch embroidery on sleeves with crochet edges. Central Poland, Mazovia (Mazowsze) region, named after largest town there Opoczno. Need to find a guy in this costume.
Close up showing embroidery and crochet on sleeves.
NOTE:  My apologies, I have not been active in the last couple of months, due to trying to obtain more dolls by special order, hunting on the internet, local doll shows, etc. Also I was away in Poland most of August and September. In the next few weeks, I am happy to report that I have several new acquired dolls to post in near future.  Oh goodie  :-D