Wednesday, 19 September 2012

Eastern Cracovian, Szczawnica, Łęczycki, Podlaski Włodawa

Eastern Cracovian
   This area which is east of Krakow city, was more agricultural lifestyle and on the west was more agricultural-industrial. This is why there is so many differences in outfits of western and eastern peasant attire of this region. It is indeed rich and varied. The villagers were prosperous due to good soil for farming as well as trading, selling and sometimes working in Krakow city proper. They were able to acquire more costly material and haberdashery toward their costumes and every village or town had a slightly different to very different cut, style and design.
 A Zalipie married woman and guy from Brzesko area.
   Woman's costume had many local variations and styles. This lady I have represents ZALIPIE village area. White kerchiefs and blouses had plenty of red and black embroidery. White skirts had white cutwork embroidery and vests or jackets were mainly in red, sometimes blue, trimmed with black velvet with white embroidery on front and cuffs. Matching aprons also had white embroidery on bottom edges.
A magierka hat.
   The characteristic headgear of men from BRZESKO was a Magierka - a woolen round hat. It was decorated with blue-red threads and peacock's feather. Men also wore a red four-cornered hat very similar to the headgear from western part - but with more peacock feathers in a fan style and a bouquet of artificial flowers attached. The Kaftan - a long vest worn by men had the same form as in western region, but medium blue to navy-blue in color and decorated with green, yellow and red tassels. They also color embroidered on bottom fronts.
   My Zalipie lady I had brought in Poland when I was a teenager (1979) and she still looks good today. Made by "Milenium" doll makers in Krakow. The Brzesko guy was a special order this year from Mr. & Mrs. Kaliszewski of Warsaw, and they did a SUPER job on his costume! 
Unusual doll maker called "Technoplastka" of Krakow, 1979. about 8 1/2 inches.
   These two guys are also Eastern Cracovians (Krakowski-Wschodni) with the Sukmana - great coat. They were white or brown with large triangular collars that were heavily embroidered. Unique for eastern part of Krakow area. The guy on right is Brzesko area, which is further away from Krakow, the gentleman on left, also eastern style, but with red-white pants and white coat, closer to Krakow.
Detail of embroidery on triangle collars. Eastern Krakow style.

Pieniny Gorals or Szczawnica Gorals
    Referred by both names, it is same costume, due to the area called Pieniny which includes the Pieniny National Park and Szczawnica is the biggest town there. Southern Poland area along the Dunajec river by Slovakia. It is east of Podhale and Spisz and south of Nowy Sącz. They have a specific dialect and costume, which has some Slovak, Hungarian and Germanic influences. Like all highlanders, the area was poor for farming so they were mainly pastoral people. Today these costumes are worn for folk dancing and one can see men in the hats and vests working the rafts for tourists on the Dunajec river.
Rafting on the river of Dunajec on the Slovak-Polish border is the most favourite
 tourist activity in the Pieniny National Park. Here two local górals in folk costume man
 the rafts with long sticks for guiding.
    Women's attire consists of the following components: linen blouse with red weaving embroidery on cuffs and sleeves, white-red stripped skirt, a cloth apron and corset (red or green) decorated with floral embroidery. Married women wore a cap like bonnet, girls were bareheaded. Kierpce or high top boots worn on feet.  The men's costume consists of a linen shirt, white loose embroidered pants, a richly embroidered and sequined blue vest, kierpce (leather moccasins) and regular goral black hat.
   Both of these dolls were special orders. The lady was made by the Stanislaw Wyspianski Handicraft Co-op about four years ago. My most recent purchase is the guy specially made by Mr. & Mrs. Kaliszewski. Great attention to detail on his costume, I love it!

Łęczycki 
   Part of Mazovia region, south of Sannicki area and north of Sieradz, west of Lowicz. The largest town was Łęczyca (When-chit-tsah), hence its name. It was a good land for farming and peasants prospered. Homespun clothing was replaced later with ready made urban wear by the turn of the century.
   As similar to most of Mazovia region, the Leczycki costume dresses, aprons and capes were made from homespun wool in multi stripes. Not only vertical stripes, but also they made horizontal or plain one coloured. Most popular colours were reds, blues, purple and green. They usually wore aprons of contrasting colour to the dress. 
Camel wool scarves.
   The most unique article of clothing for this costume, found no where else is the camel wool scarves, in cream or black, crocheted and worn over the shoulders or on heads fastened with a broach under chin. Women wore regular printed scarves on heads and married women wore tulle bonnets richly adorned with white-work embroidery and girdled with a silk scarf.  Laced boots completed the outfit.
  Men wore woollen vertical stripped or plain pants and wool jackets with horizontal stripes. Their attire disappeared by 1914.

Podlasian from Włodawa 
Podlaski Włodawski costume.  The one on the left I hand embroidered all on white cotton.
Part 3 of 3. This costume was worn in the south of the Podlasie region, especially the female attire. Very similar to the Polesie costumes in Ukraine. This costume was named after the town of Włodawa, considered to be its centre. This was a poor quality soil for farming and the the peasants wore home spuns only. Linen was the main material made and used in this area, so the whole costume pieces were made with it. To decorate, they made weaving embroidery on the skirts and aprons and head dress. Linen shirts were hand embroidered cross-stitching on sleeves, collars, cuffs and sometimes front of shirts, especially men's in colours of red, navy-blue, black and sometimes yellow. Married woman wore a headgear consisting of a wooden circular band and two linen cloths wrapped around the head with the weaving embroidery on edges. Maidens wore a woollen headscarf. If one could afford it, coral beads and leather boots, if not, coloured glass beads and bast shoes.
From left to right: girl in Radzynski, two girls in Nadburzanski, a males attire, two girls in Wlodawski
  Here I have all my Podlasian dolls from three subgroups. The men's Podlasian attire is generally the same for this area. I have written about the Radzyn and Nadburzan ones in earlier posts. There were five sub-groups all together, I don't know if I can find or get the other lesser known ones. Missing two  is called Bielska Podlaskiego area, and Sokołowa Podlaskiego (and) Węgrowa area.
            
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I am running out of dolls to show and post! There will be one more post coming later in October as I am waiting for some dolls from Poland and still one more set I haven't posted yet, saving it. Some regional costumes maybe repeated if I get different dolls. I am always on the look out for more dolls by internet or by my various contacts out there, so hopefully this blog will not end soon.